Q. Can you paint over Rub n' Buff?
A. I have many times and have had no problems. I usually give it a light sanding first, don't know if that is necessary, but it makes me feel better about it. Then I paint and poly as I would anything else.
Q. Can you use Rub n' Buff over paint?
A. Yes, I do it all the time.
Q. Does Rub n' Buff work on metal?
A. Yes! It works great on old furniture hardware, frames, lighting fixtures, etc. The only metal, to date, that I've had a problem with it "sticking", is the builders grade yellow brass stuff. Doesn't work so well there.
Q. Do you have to "prep" your furniture before you use Rub n' Buff?
A. I don't. Just make sure it's clean and free of debris of course. And, Rub n' Buff won't hide scratches, but it will highlight them.
Q. Do you need to seal Rub n' Buff?
A. That's a yes and no in my opinion. On some things like frames, hardware, or small detailing, I don't. But, when I use it on wood furniture, I usually do. I actually called the Rub n' Buff people about this, and they told me that in areas with high humidity (like Florida), Rub n' Buff can oxidize and change color, so using a sealer is a good idea. They recommended a Varathane. However, I use a spray Polyurethane, and have had no problems.
Q. I opened my tube of Rub n' Buff and a bunch of liquid came out, now my Rub n' Buff seems thick and cakey like. Is it supposed to be?
A. No. That liquid stuff is super important, if you see a lot of that coming out first, put the cap back on and try to work it back into the wax by squeezing the tube with your fingers.
Q. I tried Rub n' Buff and it was gritty, is that how it's supposed to be?
A. No! Here's the thing. From my experience, some colors are smooth and creamy like, and work well... and some are gritty, and just don't work well at all.
*Colors I've found that work best (I haven't tried them all) are: Silver Leaf, Gold Leaf, Pearl Blue, Grecian Gold, European Gold, and Turquoise.
*Colors I've tried and had mixed results with are: Ebony, Sapphire, and Ruby
*Colors I've tried and won't be trying again, that are gritty, hard to work with, and not metallic looking at all are (is): Antique White
Q. Can you dilute Rub n' Buff?
A. Yes, I do it all the time. I prefer to use Deglosser, but paint thinner works too.
Q. Why do you dilute Rub n' Buff?
A. To extend the drying time. This stuff dries quick, and if you are trying to do a large area like a table top or something like that, you can run into problems. See this "how to" to see what I mean about diluting.
Q. Do you use your finger when you apply Rub n' Buff?
A. Yes, especially when you are applying it to small areas. I wear a latex glove when using my finger because this stuff is no fun getting it out from under your nails. If you do get it under your nails, Deglosser, paint thinner, or acetone nail polish will help get it out.
I also use a small artist's brush to apply it at times, and a cloth, like an old T-shirt, works well too, depending on what you are working on.
Q. How long does Rub n' Buff take to dry?
A. It dries quick, within minutes. If it's not drying that fast... you've most likely applied it to something that it doesn't adhere to. Try wiping it off and give a light sanding to whatever you are applying it to. That will help give the surface some tooth for the Rub n' Buff to grab onto. (Unless we are talking about Silver Leaf, which can give off a silver residue even though it's dry... that just needs to be sealed.)
Q. How can I remove Rub n' Buff from metal?
A. Try wiping it with Deglosser or paint thinner.
If you missed them, here are the other tips and tricks I posted about Rub n' Buff.
Shhhheewwww! Longest post I've ever written! Hope I didn't miss any questions. If I did, just leave me a comment or send me another email with your question. I'll see if I can help.
If anyone has any other helpful suggestions about using Rub n' Buff PLEASE shoot me an email with your tip or leave it in the comment box for all to see. Would love to hear it.
UPDATE** here is another Rub n' Buff project over painted furniture! :)